Terry Hope Romero

Testers: This is kind of a tricky recipe! Well, the actually steps not really, and even if you don’t achieve the rice crust the rice is very good, but getting the crust can be a challenge. So go ahead, challengers of the challenging! Also, there’s no illustration. Going forward if a recipe mentions one, there isn’t for the purposes of testing.

 

Crusty Persian-style Rice with Saffron and Pistachios

Serves 4

 

Tadig is a remarkable style of cooking rice beloved in many parts of the Middle East, a facinating method of rice purposefully cooked to form a crunchy, golden brown layer of crust on the bottom that may seem like a mistake if you’re accustomed to Western methods of rice cooking. People go so crazy for tadig that there are even special Persian-style rice cookers that create perfectly made tadig rice crust at the touch of a button, but old fashioned stove top is still used by cooks the world over. Tadig can be made with just plain rice (with basmati the preferred rice for it’s aroma and dry texture), but it takes very well to added seasonings and layered with vegetables and beans for a complete one pot meal.

 

Tadig uses two methods of cooking the rice; first the rice is partially cooked in abundant salted water and drained, just like pasta. Then the par-cooked rice is layered in an oiled pot (not unlike dolsot bibimbap), tightly covered and steamed. To insure the seal is as tight as possible, and to help absorb the moisture from the steaming rice and prevent it from dripping back down again into the grains, a towel is wrapped underneath the lid of the pot to do double duty of absorbing moisture and locking in the steam. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, just follow the illustration provided below; any smoothly textured, clean dish towel will get the job done.

 

One more thing: the funny thing about making tadig is that sometimes when you’re actually trying to (almost) burn the bottom of your rice, it has a funny way of never forming the crunchy crust. Poor you, you’ll only have a pot of perfectly fluffy, tender basmati rice to show for it. If you never actually get the hang of making perfectly crusted tadig, you may just prefer to make basmati rice this way because it comes out so perfectly fluffy, tender, and delectable.

 

Note: You can make brown rice tadig style, but it doesn’t really create the proper crust or taste as good as the white rice variety. Save the brown rice for other dishes in this book and treat yourself to tadig on occasion.

 

Tadig tips

• While most recipe require the tadig be cooked at a low heat, I found that sometimes that’s too low to get a good crust going. Consider using medium-low heat and keeping tabs on the tagid with your nose; sometimes the tadig needs an extra boost of heat to really brown the rice at the bottom of the pan.

• Every 8 to 10 minutes, rotate the pot 90 degrees. This will help redistribute the heat for a more evenly toasted rice crust.

• Try different pots and pans in your kitchen to see which results in the best crust. Stainless steel is favored by some experienced tadig chefs for it’s heaviness but relatively thin walls. Cast iron skillet and Dutch ovens can be a little tricky, but it’s worth trying. If you happen to have an “always burns the rice” pan, then by all means try it for making tadig.

 

Note: In place of the 2 teaspoon of baharat use 1 teaspoon ground coriander, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ground cumin

 

Rice:

1 2/3 cups white basmati rice

8 cups water

1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

 

Tadig:

Pinch of saffron, crumbled

1 tablespoon of hot water or hot almond milk

1/3 cup plain soy or coconut yogurt

2 teaspoons baharat spice blend, see Note

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

4 tablespoons olive oil or melted vegan margarine, divided

3 tablespoons chopped pistachios

 

 

1. Place the rice in a large metal mesh strainer and thoroughly rinse with cold water. In a large 3 quart pot bring the water to a rolling boil over high heat. Stir in the salt and then add the rice. Boil the rice for 5 minutes; remove a rice grain and check to see that it’s just beginning to turn tender on the outside but still has a hard core. Drain the rice in the metal strainer again, stirring it a few times to remove any excess water.

 

2. While the rice is cooking, in a small cup combine the hot water or almond milk with the saffron threads and set aside for 5 minutes. Stir occasionally; the color of the saffron will seep into the water.

 

3. In a mixing bowl combined the parboiled rice, saffron water, yogurt, baharat spice, salt, and half the oil. Set aside 1/2 cup of this mixture, then add the pistachios to the remaining rice in the bowl. This rice that is set aside will be used to form a protective layer on the bottom of the crust; this rice won’t have any nuts or raisins that could easily burn during the formation of the crust.

 

4. Preheat a heavy 2 quart pot, no larger than 10 inches wide, with a tight fitting lid over medium high heat. Swirl the remaining oil over the bottom and 2 inches of the side of the pot. Use a wooden spoon to spread the reserved 1/2 cup of rice (without the pistachios) in an even layer over the bottom of the pot; the rice will sizzle on contact with the pot. Spread the remaining rice on top of this layer. Use the bottom of a measuring cup or back of the wooden spoon to press down the rice as much as possible.

 

5. Use a chopstick to poke holes about 1/2 inch apart through the rice; push the chopstick all the way through to the bottom. Spread a clean, smooth-textured dish cloth over the top of the pot, then place a tight fitting lid over the towel. Gather the hanging ends of the dishcloth so they don’t hang down the sides of the pot, then use a rubber band or a kitchen clip (like the kind for keeping snack chip bags sealed tight) to fasten the ends of the dishcloth on top of the lid.

 

6. Turn the heat down to medium-low and cook the rice for 35 to 45 minutes. Check the rice by lifting the lid; the rice should not smell burned and instead should have toasted aroma. You can also use the tip of a spatula to gently check the sides of the rice to see how the crust is progressing; if the rice seems very moist and needs more time to develop a crust, cover and continue to cook for another 10 to 15 minutes. Keep your nose within distance of the stove to make sure your rice isn’t burning, but if it smells very toasty that’s probably about as much as you can cook it for now.

 

7. To serve, remove the lid and the towel. You can serve tadig two ways; for beginners, it’s best to scoop out the rice and fillings onto a serving dish, then use a spatula to chip away at the rice crusts and arrange on top of the rice filling. If you’ve got a hang of tadig-crafting, place a serving dish on top of the pan, hold on tight and flip it over. Perfectly made tadig will slip out, golden crust and all, onto the serving dish. Enjoy hot.

 

Tadig with Raisins:

After setting aside the 1/2 cup of seasoned rice, stir in 1 cup of golden raisins into the remaining rice.

Sweet & Savory Jackfruit Carnitas Tacos
Makes 8 to 10 tacos, serving 4 with a salad

 

Testers: Don’t worry about the details about the toppings, use whatever you want. I’m more interested in how the actual jackfruit turns out for you.

 

Something of a legend now, the meaty, tropical jackfruit was first featured on the menu of the now defunct Pure Luck eatery in L.A., but versions of this have lived on in vegan blog land as an exciting alternative to tempeh, tofu, or seitan in vegan Mexican American cuisine. Having before enjoyed jackfruit in Sri Lankan curries, I could see how the texture of this fruit has a chewy, succulent and and flaking texture that that’s visually reminicient of pulled pork or shredded chicken.

Jackfruit is all texture and can be short on big flavors, so I added tangy sweet pineapple juice, soy sauce, chile powder, liquid smoke, and spicy chipotles in adobo sauce for saucy, sweet and smoky veggie carnitas. These are big tacos that require two corn tortillas overlapping each other to help support all the juicy filling and toppings.

If you have the time, gently searing the cooked jackfruit in a cast iron pan seals in the flavors and lightly caramelized the edges of the jackfruit shreds for that authentic carnitas touch.

Jackfruit shopping tip: For best results look for unsweetened, brined unripe jackfruit sold in cans, jars, or frozen, and don’t buy jackfruit packed in syrup. Brined jackfruit has been peeled and sliced into wedges, has a firm texture and a light pinkish color. The brine helps lightly pickle the jackfruit and gives it a meaty texture and mild flavor.Also avoid frozen green jackfruit that has not been brined. Usually this kind of frozen jackfruit will look like creamy white pods, not wedges or slices. Once thawed it will have a bland flavor and a useless mushy texture.

 

Preparing canned or jarred jackfruitDrain the jackfruit wedges and rinse with plenty of cool water. Chop the wedges into 1 inch wide chunks, then use your fingers to pull apart the pieces into shreds. The more you shred the jackfruit pieces, the more carnita-like it will look later. Then grab handfuls of the pulp and squeeze out as much water as possible before marinating.If using frozen, thaw overnight or speed up thawing by steeping the unopened jackfruit package in hot water. Squeeze out as much water as possible and separate into chunks as described for canned jackfruit above.

2 ten ounce cans canned green, brined jackfruit, or 20 ounces brined frozen unripe jackfruit, thawed *See Tip
2 rounded teaspoons ancho chile powder or Mexican chile powder blend
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon garlic or onion powder
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups pineapple juice
1/4 cup water
2 heaping tablespoons tomato paste
2 chipotles in adobo, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and grated on a microplane grater or pressed
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice

1 tablespoon molasses
2 teaspoons liquid smoke

2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons peanut oil, plus additional oil for frying if desired

Tacos
16 corn tortillas
Pickled Red Onions
Finely shredded green or red cabbage
2 ripe tomatoes and 1 ripe avocado, diced into bite sized chunks

Cashew Yogurt (page XX) for drizzling, or Sikil Pak dip for dolloping (page XX)

1. Prepare jackfruit as described in the Jackfruit Tip, then place jackfruit chunks in a large mixing bowl and sprinkle with chile powder, cumin, coriander, garlic powder, and salt. Use your fingers to vigorously rub the spices into the jackfruit, then set aside. In a 3 quart pot whisk together the pineapple juice, water, tomato paste, chipotles, grated garlic, soy sauce, lime juice, molasses, liquid smoke, bay leaves, and half of the vegetable oil. Add the jackfruit and vigorously stir to coat with the marinade, then set aside for 20 minutes or even better, cover and chill overnight.

2. When ready to cook the jackfruit, turn the burner onto high and bring the jackfruit marinade to a rapid simmer for 2 minutes, then reduce heat to low. Partially cover the pot and simmer the jackfruit for 50 to 55 minutes, occasionally stirring; there should be some sauce still left in the pot. Turn off the heat, uncover the jackfruit and remove the bay leaves. You can now serve the jackfruit as is, or fry it up slightly to caramelize the edges.

3. To sear the jackfruit, preheat a 10 inch cast iron skillet over medium heat, then spread a teaspoon of vegetable oil over the bottom. Pour in 1 cup of jackfruit (with sauce) and sauté for 4 to 6 minutes until the liquid has been absorbed and the edges of the shreds are browned and slightly caramelized. Transfer to a serving dish, and sauté more jackfruit as needed in small batches.

4. To assemble a taco, preheat a cast iron skillet to high. Overlap 2 corn tortillas on the dry skillet and warm just enough to get the tortillas hot and flexible, about 45 seconds. Transfer tortillas and overlap slightly on a serving dish. Pile on about 1/3 cup of jackfruit carnitas and top with onions, lettuce, pico de gallo, and cashew yogurt or sikil pak. Buen provecho!

 

It’s Easy Being Green Curry

Serves 2 to 3

 

A non-scientific poll conducted by yours truly revealed Thai green curry to be slightly in the lead for most popular curry in the Thai curry kingdom. Buttery coconut milk and lively herbs and chiles make this light green curry swoon-worthy; if you stumble upon Thai apple eggplants in your travels include them here, but if not tender young zucchini supply a nice green tender contrast to the soothing rich broth.

 

The curry paste can be made days ahead, even frozen, making this a relatively fast week night meal. For a reduced fat curry, use lite canned coconut milk, or use less coconut milk and more vegetable broth.

 

Ingredient side bar: Galangal

If you can find it, fresh Thai galangal root makes an interesting addition to these curry pastes. Looking a little bit like pale yellow ginger with maybe a flush of pink, galangal root has different flavor entirely: it’s pungent, earthy and complex with notes of mustard seeds, white pepper, and citrus. A little goes a long way, and the root is woodier than fresh ginger and can be a somewhat tougher to slice. Peel small piece about the size of the tip of your thumb for the first time you make the curry paste, adding more if you find you love the mysterious tropical flavor of galangal in your curries. Store fresh galangal tightly wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator and use within 2 weeks of purchase.

 

Tip: Roughly chopping the vegetables will make for easier grinding in the food processor.

 

Green Curry Paste:

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 cup lightly packed cilantro sprigs with stems

4 to 6 Thai green hot chiles or serrano chiles, chopped

2 large shallots, peeled and chopped in half

4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped in half

1 stalk lemongrass, outer leaves removed and chopped or 2 tablespoons prepared lemongrass

1 inch thick piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

½ teaspoon sea salt

 

Vegetable Curry

2 teaspoons virgin coconut oil or vegetable oil

1/2 recipe Pressed Baked Tofu, or 8 ounces purchased baked or fried tofu sliced into 1/4 inch thin strips

One 14 ounce can coconut milk, regular or reduced fat

1 1/2 cups mild vegetable broth or water

4 kaffir lime leaves, fresh or frozen or the peel from 1 organic lime (see Tom Som Soup for lime peeling tips)

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon of Thai thin soy sauce or more to taste

1 red bell pepper, seeds removed and sliced into 1/2 inch wide strips

2 small, slender zucchini or 6 Thai apple eggplants, stems removed and sliced into quarters

1/2 cup lightly packed Thai basil leaves, thinly sliced

Boiled jasmine rice, for serving

 

1. Prepare the curry paste first: In a small skillet over medium heat toast the coriander and cumin seeds for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Grind the toasted seeds in a clean coffee mill into a fine powder, then transfer to a food processor along with the remaining paste ingredients to a food processor and pulse into a smooth, thick paste. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the processor bowl frequently.

 

2. In a 2 quart pot melt the coconut oil over medium heat. Add the curry paste, stir with a wooden spoon or heat resistant rubber spatula and stir fry for 1 minute. Add the tofu and fry for 2 minutes, stirring to coat with the fried curry paste. Stir in the coconut milk, vegetable broth, lime leaves, lime juice, brown sugar, and soy sauce. Increase heat to medium high, simmer for 5 minutes then reduce heat to medium low.

 

3. Add the red bell pepper, zucchini or Thai eggplant, and basil leaves and simmer for another 8 to 10 minutes or until vegetables are slightly tender but still have a little bit of firmness to them. Remove from heat, taste and season with more Thai thin soy sauce and lime juice if desired and let stand for 5 minutes. Serve with hot rice.

 

Red Curry with Pumpkin & Potatoes

Serves 2 to 3 with rice

 

I couldn’t decide which curry was more popular, so I’ve included both red and green version of the wildly popular Thai curries. Red in this instance doesn’t mean stop, but instead go go go to a slightly sweet and spicy pale red curry that’s enhanced with pumpkin and potato for a dish that’s both invigorating and soothing. Smoky, fruity Mexican ancho chile powder compliments the red Thai chiles by enriching the color without adding too much fire.

 

Tip: Pickled, or lightly brined bamboo shoots can be purchased in cans, jars, or in some Asian markets in bulk. They may have a very strong odor (a little medicinal, a little bit chemical) that can be a little freaky; to quiet it down, drain, then soak the shoots (usually pre-sliced into shreds) in cool water for 20 minutes, then drain and rinse again. A little of the odor will linger, but once cooked the flavor will mellow into the intense curry.

 

Tip: Reduced fat coconut milk won’t taste as rich as the full fat stuff, but it’s a welcome addition to this flavoful curry if you want all the nuances but less of the fat.

 

Curry Paste:

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

6 to 8 fresh red Thai chiles, stems removed

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

2 ½ teaspoons Ancho chile powder or any mild, red Mexican chile powder

2 large shallots, peeled and chopped in half

4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped in half

1 stalk lemongrass, outer leaves removed and chopped or 2 tablespoons prepared lemongrass

1 inch thick piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

½ teaspoon sea salt

 

Vegetable Curry

1 tablespoon vegetable or coconut oil

strips

One 14 ounce can coconut milk, reduced fat or regular

1 1/2 cups mild vegetable broth or water

4 kaffir lime leaves, fresh or frozen or the peel from 1 organic lime, sliced into 1 inch wide pieces

1 tablespoon lime juice

4 teaspoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon of Thai thin soy sauce or more to taste

1/2 recipe Pressed Baked Tofu or 8 ounces purchased baked or fried tofu, diced into 1 inch cubes

2 to 2 1/2 cups peeled and diced kobocha pumpkin (little more than 1/2 pound)

1 large potato, peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes (about 1/2 pound)

1 cup thinly sliced jarred or canned bamboo shoots or baby corn, drained and rinsed

1/2 cup lightly packed Thai basil leaves

 

1. Prepare the curry paste first: In a small skillet over medium heat toast the coriander, cumin seeds, and fenugreek for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Grind the toasted seeds in a clean coffee mill into a fine powder, then transfer to a food processor along with the remaining paste ingredients to a food processor and pulse into a smooth, thick paste. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the processor bowl frequently.

 

2. In a 2 quart pot melt the coconut oil over medium heat. Add the curry paste, stir with a wooden spoon or heat resistant rubber spatula and stir fry for 1 minute. Add the tofu and fry for 2 minutes, stirring to coat with the fried curry paste. Stir in the coconut milk, vegetable broth, lime leaves, lime juice, brown sugar, and Thai thin soy sauce. Increase heat to medium high, simmer for 2 minutes then reduce heat to medium low.

 

3. Add the tofu, pumpkin, potato, and bamboo shoots and simmer for another 25 to 30 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Stir in the basil leaves and simmer another minute. Taste and season with more soy sauce and lime juice if desired. Remove from heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Serve with hot rice.

 

Little Spring Rolls with Garlic Chives

Makes about 16 springrolls

 

These crunchy little pan fried spring rolls, filled with chewy mung bean noodle threads and shredded veggies, are destined for dipping in Mock Nuoc Cham or and an exciting role sliced up and tucked into the Seitan Bo Bun. These can be baked too, but with a little cooking oil spray it’s easy enough to quickly pan fry them for extra crunch.

 

Asian garlic chives are the star ingredient in these little spring rolls. These are rather different from European chives; if you’re a fan of leeks and ramps, you’ll adore these long, wide flat blades that are substantial, sweet and have a pronounced garlic flavor. Look for long green bundles of these chives in most any Asian grocery store; they’re typically cheap and plentiful.

 

Alternatively, the filling can be used for light, delicate dumplings. Omit the threads and stuff this filling into gyoza wrappers or dumpling dough and you’ll have a basic Chinese dumpling bursting with sweet garlic chive goodness.

 

2 ounces (one 5 inch bundle) mung bean noodle threads

4 teaspoons vegetable oil

2 large shallots, peeled and minced

1 1/2 inch cube ginger, peeled and finely grated on a microplane grater

1/2 pound Napa or Savoy green cabbage (about half of a small 6 inch head), chopped into thin shreds

1/2 pound thinly sliced Asian garlic chives

1 large carrot, peeled and shredded

4 teaspoons Thai thin soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Pinch white pepper

16 or more four to five inch square vegan spring roll wrappers

 

Dipping sauce, or use Mock Nuoc Cham

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or rice vinegar

2 teaspoons agave

1/2 inch cube ginger, peeled and finely grated on a microplane grater

 

1. Make the filling first: In a mixing bowl cover the mung bean threads with 2 inches of hot water and soak for 10 minutes or until soft, then drain the noodles and squeeze well to remove any excess moisture. Chop the noodles a few times into lengths of about 3 inches. In wok over high heat preheat the oil, then stir in the garlic and ginger and fry for 30 seconds. Add the cabbage, chives, and carrot and stir fry until just starting to become wilted and soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the noodles, then sprinkle with soy sauce, sesame oil, and white pepper. Turn off the heat and transfer filling to a mixing bowl to cool.

 

2. When the filling is cool enough to handle, assemble the spring rolls. Place a spring roll wrapper on a clean work surface. Scoop 2 tablespoons of filling, then spread the filling over the bottom third of the spring roll wrapper, leaving 1 inch clear around the edges. Fold the left and right edges of the wrapper over the filling. Now fold the bottom edge over the filling. Continue to roll the spring roll to meet the top edge of the wrapper; it should look like a tiny burrito. Wet the tips of your finger in water and seal the edge. Place seam side down onto a baking sheet and repeat with remaining filling and wrappers (See illustration page XX).

 

3. To pan fry spring rolls, heat a tablespoon of oil in a wok or 12 inch deep skillet over medium high heat. Or generously spray the bottom of the pan with cooking oil spray. Place 3 to 4 rolls seam side down and cook for 2 minutes before turning the rolls occasionally to brown all sides. Add more oil when needed to prevent sticking. If desired lay hot spring rolls on paper towels to drain a little before serving.

 

5. To bake spring rolls, preheat oven to 425 and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Generously spray spring rolls with cooking oil spray and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, turn them over, spray with oil again and bake another 6 to 8 minutes until wrappers crisp and golden.

 

6. To freeze spring rolls, lay unbaked in a single layer on a baking sheet and freeze solid before storing in zip top plastic bags. Don’t thaw, just bake directly in a 425 degree preheated oven on parchment lined baking sheets as directed.

 

Chive Dumplings

Omit the bean thread noodles and if desired double the amount of chives for a total of 1 pound. Use this filling to stuff gyoza, wonton, or wrappers made from the Basic Dumpling dough; if using the dough, follow the directions for shaping and steaming momos